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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2015 17:33:39 GMT
Thank you, I'll have a good read.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2015 13:50:21 GMT
Before I go any further, how does this look? The tube for adding water will be cut shorter so I can take the top off easier when needs be. The sponge is filter sponge. Successfully drilled 2x 10mm holes for the tank connectors and enlarged the end top air hole to take the tube.
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Post by Wood~Ant on Nov 6, 2015 14:17:17 GMT
I don't use any kind of sponge as the ants often make chambers along the base, and unless you cover it with a fine gravel they may chew at it and get their feet entangled in the shredded bits of sponge. Otherwise the connectors and water tube are fine, and you could use clay granules instead of the sponge for hydration purposes.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2015 14:22:52 GMT
Good points, I'll leave the sponge out. I have a problem with the water tube and that is if I need to take the top off then the water tube may get knocked and could destroy chambers. Is there a better way of providing hydration?
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Post by Wood~Ant on Nov 6, 2015 14:27:50 GMT
Good points, I'll leave the sponge out. I have a problem with the water tube and that is if I need to take the top off then the water tube may get knocked and could destroy chambers. Is there a better way of providing hydration? Could you make a small hole in the end of the set up and put in the water tube horizontally? Or maybe use a cloth wick to soak up water from an external source?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2015 16:08:57 GMT
How about if I use a strip of coconut fibre (like hanging basket liners are made out of) and have that down one of the ends and a small bit of tube so I can syringe the water on to it?
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Post by Jenny on Nov 6, 2015 16:52:02 GMT
It should work, it will be trial and error as we have never used it but it is a good conductor of water. You just have to be mindful that Messors like it more on the dry side than very moist. It's finding that balance with them, as they will have drier chambers that they keep their seed in, but they do love to dig chambers out so it needs to be just moist too. This is why a lot of people keep them in an easy formicarium that has nothing much in it. You need more skill to keep them in a dirt nest, as it requires adjustments.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2015 17:00:49 GMT
I'm wondering if it might just be simpler to squeeze some water in through the vents at the top now and again.
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Post by Jenny on Nov 6, 2015 17:58:15 GMT
It's very difficult through the mesh, the water tends to run off unless you can think of another method. Syringing doesn't get enough in where you want it short of taking the lid off.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2015 18:23:51 GMT
Nice build,you have done exactly what I have done to both of my worm worlds.Small hint stuff a lot of foam up the pipe to prevent the workers climbing up
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2015 19:20:30 GMT
Dayshaddow, I saw the picture you did in another thread I'll have to have a think then Jen. I'm sure something will pop into my head.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2015 22:05:31 GMT
my design is to allow me not to remove the lid, when watering my colony's a few 1000's angry nigers is a problem I do not need..Having said that it is your choice my friend and I'm not perfect and have a lot to learn
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Post by Jenny on Nov 7, 2015 6:35:22 GMT
Hi psy, I have dug out 2 videos dayshaddow did on his conversion. I don't know if you managed to see them as they were buried back in the pages. Click LINK
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2015 9:02:54 GMT
Thank you. I want the best of both worlds - easy hydration whilst still allowing the ants to make chambers on the bottom. To this end I think hydration needs to be from the side like my coconut fibre strip idea. If I was to use this idea I think it might be best to silicone the coconut panel to the side. The bung at the top is a tight fit and would just be pulled out and then water syringed or dripped onto the coconut panel from the top. It should work its way down through the panel and provide that side of the nest with a humid side. Can anyone see any issues with this? With it being an enclosed nest in acrylic I can't imagine it dries out very quickly? I'm still debating with myself whether to continue heating the nest. If I was to heat this one I'd be inclined to heat from one side. Excuse the state of the window in the pictures! I must clean the sills.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2015 9:07:31 GMT
For anyone wondering about the holes I drilled for the tank connectors: I used a wood drill bit, set the drill speed to the lowest and took my time putting very gentle pressure on the drill trigger so that it wasn't running at full speed. I applied virtually no pressure other than the weight of the drill itself. I test drilled a few holes in some other acrylic before attempting this, so 4 holes in total (2 test + 2 in the worm world) and had no problems with any of them.
The tank connectors are 9mm and were salvaged from a ytong nest that was damaged by the couriers. I've fixed them in place with HA6 which is a marine grade silicone adhesive.
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