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Post by priestking on Apr 20, 2010 10:21:26 GMT
Hello everyone
I am planning to catch some Lasius Niger queens this summer from the nuptial flights and want to be fully prepared before then.
I have read about the test tube set up but am unsure about a few things. I know that you fill about 1/3 to 1/2 of the test tube with water and use cotton wool to prevent the water from leaking out. you then place your queen inside and block the end with more cotton wool to prevent escape.
My queries are as follows:
1. Would I need to add a little amount of sand/soil where the queen will be placed in the test tube or should I not add anything at all?
2. I have some glass test tubes and plan to try and catch a few queens. Would it be a problem if I was to store the test tubes containing queens next to each other or is it better to keep some distance between each queen.
3. I also have some really small square containers and was wondering if it would be better to use them instead of a test tube set up. I could use a tic-tac packet to store water in and it will fit in the container. What set up do most people use with queens?
4. I have read that once I have captured the queen and placed it in test tube set up, I should leave the test tube in the dark and not disturb it. Will she lay eggs first or will she hibernate and then lay eggs the following spring? If she does lay eggs and they develop into new ant workers. what should I feed them and how often?
5. when should I start thinking about moving the colony out of the test tube and into a proper ant formicarium?
I have loads more questions in general but will stop here and create relevant posts to my questions. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated
Thanks for all your help
Rob
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Post by deansyme on Apr 20, 2010 10:51:31 GMT
Hi Rob and welcome to the brilliant world of growing your first colony from a single queen. This is a great post that many new ant collectors/keepers will be able to refer to for a long time to come. The answers to your questions are as follows - 1. "Would I need to add a little amount of sand/soil where the queen will be placed in the test tube or should I not add anything at all?"No, keep the test tube as clean as possible this will avoid any mold or bacteria being transfered to the queen or her young, so just the cotton wool,water and queen is fine. 2. I have some glass test tubes and plan to try and catch a few queens. Would it be a problem if I was to store the test tubes containing queens next to each other or is it better to keep some distance between each queen. This will be fine, I have all my queens and smaller colonies side by side and have come across no problems. 3. I also have some really small square containers and was wondering if it would be better to use them instead of a test tube set up. I could use a tic-tac packet to store water in and it will fit in the container. What set up do most people use with queens?I personally prefer the test tubes having tried many set-ups in the past, you can experiment with different ideas and let us know how you got on.. 4. I have read that once I have captured the queen and placed it in test tube set up, I should leave the test tube in the dark and not disturb it. Will she lay eggs first or will she hibernate and then lay eggs the following spring? If she does lay eggs and they develop into new ant workers. what should I feed them and how often?I always give me new queens a little honey water to give her a little boost then every week to two weeks another little bit ( and I mean little bit) don't over feed her or the food Will go moldy. Also when the workers hatch you can increase the feeding times to suit, again being careful about amounts. ( maybe introduce a couple small freshly dead flies) 5. when should I start thinking about moving the colony out of the test tube and into a proper ant formicarium? Keep them in the test tube until there is 5-10 workers, then move them to your new set up, I hope this helps you and if you have any questions please just ask away.. Remember to keep us informed of your progress. You will find and I expect most members will agree that you will learn a lot more as you progress than anyone could ever tell you. Regards Dean
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Post by Zarbi on Apr 20, 2010 12:04:39 GMT
Hi Rob, the first thing to remember is, DON'T PANIC as many first timers tend to do. As long as the queens are in separate containers and can't smell each other, you can place as many as you like next to each other. You don't really need to add sand or soil, as it will probably turn to mud if it comes into contact with wet cotton wool and just complicate matters. Keeping queens in the dark will not make them hibernate, only cold does this. As for moving a colony into a proper set up, it is best to leave them until the following year when hopefully each queen will have at least 20+ workers to help her
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Post by priestking on Apr 21, 2010 7:49:40 GMT
Dean and Zarbi. Regarding Q4, I was wondering when does the queen lays her first batch of eggs (if eggs is the correct word). Will she hibernate first or will she lay first or does she do both? I know that it depends on temperature. I'm planning to keep my queen and eventual ant colony in the shed so in winter the temperature will be very low and I intend to enclose the test tubes in some polystyrene to protect from frost. Was just wondering what to expect once I have captured the queen. If she does lay eggs first then I would have to keep an eye out for the first brood and worker so that I can start providing some protein food as well as honey water. If she does go into hybernation then I can not worry about that until later. Thanks again for your help. Rob
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Post by Wood~Ant on Apr 21, 2010 8:03:06 GMT
Hi Rob, I'm assuming that you are going to collect newly mated queens around late July/early August when the nuptial flights of most British ants happen?
New queens generally lay their first clutch of eggs within 7-10 days of mating. These develop far more quickly into larvae and pupae than later generations. Lasius flavus and L. niger queens that I have picked up around the beginning of August tend to do this, and they always have their first worker by early October; sometimes even late September.
The queen, with or without workers, will not hibernate until mid November. Though usually by then she will have laid a second clutch if she has been fed well; and even if she only has a small number of workers with her when they go into hibernation, they can and do over-winter larvae, as the cold stops all growth development until the following Spring.
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Post by Zarbi on Apr 21, 2010 9:11:27 GMT
Regarding Q4, I was wondering when does the queen lays her first batch of eggs (if eggs is the correct word). Will she hibernate first or will she lay first or does she do both? Like Wood says, a newly mated queen will lay eggs very fast, sometimes just 3 days after being caught. She needs to do this in order to get her colony going before winter comes along. So you should have her first eggs within a week, and her first workers about 7-8 weeks later.
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Post by priestking on Apr 21, 2010 9:17:06 GMT
Hello Wood Ant
Thanks for your reply. Yes, I am planning to capture some newly mated queens from the nuptial flights this summer. I'm assuming that I will be getting Lasius Niger queens since the queens look similar to the large flying ants that I see during the summer nuptial flights and they are everywhere!
When the ants hibernate, will I still need to provide honey/protein foods as well as water or will the ants be okay without food whilst they hibernate. Any other advice to give a colony the best start would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Rob
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Post by Kyle on Apr 21, 2010 11:41:05 GMT
During hibernation they don't need any food or honeywater just as long as they have water if they want it (if they're in a test tube then thats no problem).
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